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November 26th, 2023 at Try Again Boulder in Lincoln Woods

I went back to Lincoln Woods since I was quite eager to finish up on Loadies Zen. It was a pretty short and chill session, since I got there around 9:30am and had to leave around 1:00pm to catch the commuter rail back to Boston. I warmed up practicing the end of the boulder and then tried to get the beta for the second move. I ended up figuring out that the best and most consistent beta for the second move for me was to get a good left foot jam and square up on the holds. Then I would roll-over on the right foot and dyno for the jug. This turned out to be super consistent for me so it was what I went with for all my send goes. It took a while to figure out the footwork to hit it consistently. Since I had the rest of the boulder dialed in I got to the dyno quite easily once I figured out the second move, but the beginning was pumpy enough to throw off my dyno attempts. Below is a video of two of my falls scraping off the top jug, which shows my beta for the bottom half of the boulder quite well.

I realized I was feeling quite tired at the dyno which was why I wasn't able to generate enough to latch it in the right spot. I took a break and ate some granola bars, and sure enough two attempts later I got the send! Definitely my proudest send yet, and the most quality problem I have worked on so far. Unfortunately, one of the guys at the boulder was blocking my video for the bottom of the boulder. Still got the send! I am super excited to come back later to Try Again once I am a bit better to work on Diesel.

After I got the send, there wasn't that much time left for me to climb so I decided to head back and stop at Warm Up Cave to check it out since I had never been there before. I only had time for a few burns, so I hopped on New Direction. I missed the slot the first time, but did it my second try. I then tried the sit start, New Dimension, and flashed it up until the crux, which is the move to the start hold of New Direction. Definitely going to give this a good session of work next time I'm out at Lincoln!